Sani – Lesotho - 1996

The first trip up the Sani Pass in winter

 

Intro:

 

After we had out trip to Roma we decided that we’d like to ride the big mountains of Lesotho. The Sani Pass is one of the few passes that enter Lesotho from the East. It is located near the South African towns of Himeville and Underberg.

 

The pass itself is about 9 kilometres long starting at the SA border control point and ending at the Lesotho border point. It’s a dirt road that’s rough but nothing too serious. A 4X4 is recommended (was mandatory at one point!) but after the resurfacing of 1999 I saw a VW Polo get up it. Needless to say a dirt bike has no problems; even a big dual-sport (Varadero etc.) would be OK.

 

We wanted to see some snow so I found some cheap accommodation and we put the street legal kit on the bikes. As the pass is in fact a public road the vehicles that use it should be street legal.

 

We drove down early on the Friday morning of the August long weekend, a trip of about 700 kilometres. We drove from Johannesburg down to just after the Midmar dam then turned due West to Underberg. Part of the fun was just doing this drive with a like minded individual; it was really getting away from it all!

Back Packers lodging

Yes, indeed.

I found this place on the internet and thought at R25.00 (Rands – about 10:1 Sterling or 7:1 US Dollars) per room it was a bargain. The picture above shows what the ‘room’ was.

A toilet.

Yes, a converted toilet. It didn’t smell and the hole had been plugged (that’s about all it had going for it!) but was just wide enough for us to get in. JR took the top bunk, I got the bottom one, and fortunately we had sleeping bags. Every time JR rolled over in the night I got a fine shower of dust sprinkling down on my face. Lovely…

 

There was a shower of sorts, it required making a fire under an oil drum so that the water was heated as it pumped through, but this took forever so we had cold showers. In August. In the ‘berg. Lovely again…

 

Anyway, we were there to ride so when we got there at about 11am we kitted up and headed up to the SA border post. After a bit of persuading the police let us through. Our bikes were still pretty much in off-road format so it was good of them to do so.

 

NOTE TO ALL PEOPLE GOING UP THE SANI PASS: bring your passport! You are leaving South Africa, just like flying to London.

We were there 4 years in a row and it seemed there was always some guy with his family in a 4X4 arguing with the Police that they had come all the way and they didn’t know you needed a passport. Every time the Police turned them around, so be warned.

I don’t know if this is still the case now in 2006 but it might be worth a call before leaving. A Commonwealth or South African passport holder didn’t require a Visa.

Location on Google Earth

 

Halfway

Here we are about half way up the pass looking south. There’s a little bit of snow left on these north facing slopes, most had melted off at that point. The bikes were running ok if a little flat. Altitude must be about 2000 metres.

 

My WR had bigger hand guards to stop that freezing wind, JR’s KTM was pretty much the same.

Location on Google Earth

 

Halfway north

This is the other direction (North). JR is keeping his helmet on as it’s pretty cold. More snow on the south facing slopes but not too bad.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Ice Wall

This picture is a little bit higher up again, JR is standing next to a wall of ice.

 

This had fallen as snow but during the previous 4 weeks the snow had melted during the day and re-frozen as ice in the night. This then had built up as a huge chunk of ice around this bend. A ‘dozer had cut its way through a few days earlier.

 

This picture was actually taken on the way back down; I had lost the rear coming down the road here as the surface was pure ice and we didn’t have Trelleborg tyres or anything for traction. I felt it coming around and there was nothing to do but let it go. JR was laughing like a hyena as he could see it coming.

 

Not a hard fall though and the bike was fine. Getting up this section was pretty tricky too; we found we could sit with our full weight over the rear tyre, let the clutch out at just above idle and nothing would happen. The rear tyre just turned slowly. We would push the bikes up one at a time which was pretty hard going. Altitude and smooth soled (MX) boots did not help.

 

The ice that JR was standing next to was solid. I thought it might not be snow so I gave it a solid kick with my steel tipped MX boot. Not a mark, not even a blemish, I might as well have tried kicking the mountain.

Location on Google Earth

 

Looking down

This picture is where we stopped next a bunch of 4X4’s. This was as far as these guys had got as they also only had rubber tyres. Nobody had thought to bring snow chains.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Ice Corner?

I think this switch back is called Ice Corner as there’s normally a frozen waterfall here.

 

A lot of these guys were out of the 4X4’s and had sledges. They were having a great time walking up and sliding down. It wasn’t really snow at that point but it wasn’t solid ice either.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Yamaha and 4X4

This is picture was taken from the same place as the one above but looking down over the ‘edge’.

 

The 4X4’s had gotten this far and wisely decided not to risk ice without chains on a pass with no guard rails! I parked my WR here so we could look a bit further up the pass and see if it was worthwhile trying to go any further.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Push!

JR, on the other hand, went at it (he’s like that…).

As soon as we got to the actual corner the ice stopped even the bikes. Here JR is pushing his bike with the rear wheel just slowly rotating. We found we could let the clutch out and not even worry about stalling out, there was so little traction!

A big thanks to the 8 guys helping… Not.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Up we go

This is taken very close to the same place as the above pictures, we had just managed to get both bikes around Ice Corner and were taking a quick breather getting ready for the next switch back.

 

Luckily JR had reconnoitred this and there was another ‘dozer on its way down so Ice Corner was the only real problem. To our immediate left there was a mound of snow and ice (see next picture) that caused some grief but we managed to get through this eventually.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Snow and ice

This picture was also taken on the way down but shows the snow at the point.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Sani Top

This is both of us at the top of Sani.

 

After we got onto the cleared section that the ‘dozer had taken care of it was relatively easy going to get all the way up. We were the first vehicles to get from SA to Lesotho after the snow of ’96. I think we managed to surprise the Lesotho border control as their ‘office’ was empty and it looked like we woke them up!

 

The ground here was churned up really bad. There were a few hikers around and some 4X4’s that were ice-welded into place outside the Sani Top Chalet.

 

The Sani Top Chalet is the highest pub in Africa and serves some of the best mulled wine I’ve ever tasted. We stopped there every time for a fill-up and sit down. It’s best described as ‘rustic and charming’ but has everything you need after a day of riding in the snow.

http://www.sanitopchalet.co.za/

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Snow

JR on top of the ‘berg.

 

We have moved a bit inland here and stopped for a couple of pics. As can be seen there is still a lot of snow up in Lesotho.

Behind JR’s left hand is the road; this had been carved out of the snow and ice. Way back over JR’s right shoulder the road swings back and up to another, smaller pass called Black Mountain (I think!).

We decided to see how far in we could get before the snow stopped us.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Black Mountain 1

This was quite far up Black Mountain pass, Sani is back over to the left in the picture. We were taking another break here as it was getting heavy going. There was a lot of snow and ice. Although the road looks like a normal dirt road it’s all actually frozen, as soon as the bikes cut through the top layer they hit the ice and just spun up.

 

JR took a run at a switchback up here and lost it. It was my turn to have a laugh! But it was a big one, I think he was pretty sore afterwards.

 

This was as far as we got in 1996. The road ahead was covered in snow drifts and it was getting late. The border is only open from 8:00am to 4:00pm so we had to turn back.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Black Mountain summer

 

This is the Black Mountain in summer – a really good (but short) ride. The picture above this one was taken just off center to the right. There’s a double set of switchbacks there.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Snow of 1996

This picture is courtesy of Sani Top Chalet. It shows the extent of the snow of 1996. I don’t think this happens too often. This looks like it was taken very close to the Chalet, the pass and South Africa can be seen to the right of the picture. A Lot of people were cut off.

 

Sani Pass elevation

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