Sani – Lesotho - 1997

The second trip up the Sani Pass in winter

 

Intro:

 

After thoroughly enjoying the 1996 trip we had to come down to Sani again.

This time around we didn’t go to Roma; Sani was a much better option and gave us the riding we wanted.

 

We also decided to give the back packers lodging a miss this time and rent a self-catered chalet a little closer to Himeville.

 

We went down on the same long weekend in August, again leaving before dawn on the Friday so we could get at least two days good riding.

 

Underberg

This is an outlook over the town of Underberg. This picture was actually taken on the Sunday morning when we were leaving but I’ve put it in here as we saw a similar view when we arrived.

 

Underberg is a small town in the southern-central Drakensberg area. We normally filled up the bikes here (they were on our home-made trailer) and got some other bits and pieces.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Chalet 1

This is the chalet we rented on recommendation of my brother in law. It was a lot better than the back packers lodging we stayed in the previous year! A basic two bedroom type with a kitchen and living room / dining room.

 

It had a nice hot shower and also had a open log fire that kept us warm. The Toyota made the trip again.

 

This chalet belonged to a old farmer that rented it out fairly cheaply. He could have spent some money on it and made it a lot more marketable but I think he wasn’t really that worried. His farm house was over to the left of this picture.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Chalet 2

Another picture of the chalet.

 

JR had a new bike at this point, a Kawasaki KDX200. A very good little bike, and I say little only because it was small in size; with JR riding it was quicker than KTM 300’s, KTM 360’s, Honda CR250’s and most other bikes.

 

JR kept it in good shape and it never missed a beat, he bought it out the crate which is probably the best with dirt bikes.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Chalet 3

JR kitting up on the Saturday morning. Although we had a good ride on the Friday, Saturday was always the best as we made sure that we were at the border control at 8:00am sharp to miss the traffic.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

In the clouds

We had passed through the border control here and started up in the clouds. We had hit the snow on the pass and ran into the same problem of zero traction. We decided to take a few pictures here and have a break.

 

We had both put on a new rear knobbly so that we got the maximum possible traction but it didn’t really help that much.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Snow Corner?

I was standing in some snow off the pass here. This time around it was not ice!

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Above the clouds 1

We started coming through the clouds here and it was a really good view.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

WR

This is me hacking my way up the pass. The bike is slipping and spinning all the way up here, I’m trying to get a bit of weight over the rear while keeping it shiny side up.

 

I put an Acerbis 5 litre header tank on the bike this time as we were determined to get over Black Mountain and all the way to Mokhotlong and weren’t sure about the fuel situation there. As it turned out there was petrol (and even 2-stroke oil!) to be had, it was finding it that was the problem.

 

When we got to Mokhotlong we rode up and down the main street looking for fuel and all we could find was diesel and paraffin! The petrol station (two pumps in a field next to a shack) was on a hill at the entry of the main street.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Snow Switchback

JR struggling around a switchback.

 

This would seem a bit odd to most dirt bike riders – a KDX200 on full knobblies crawling around a corner? This and the next picture shows what problems can be found when riding on snow covered dirt roads.

 

We had the same problem the previous year in that snow had melted into the ground and then froze into ice. At this point JR’s rear wheel is just slowly turning around and around. We were trying all sorts of lines; in the snow, in the dirt, on the rocks – anything to get traction!

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Paddling

 

This is JR paddling the bike up the pass.

 

Here again all the dirt is just frozen ice, a bit further up, in the sun, the road was fine – no problems. But where the sun couldn’t reach it was all ice. Imagine taking your bike onto an ice-rink and trying to ride without spikes. Throw in a thirty degree slope and 2500 meters of altitude and you’ll get the picture.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Taking a break

After pushing my bike up to this point we had a quick break.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Out at the top

We were very near the top here, I’d lost my number plate somewhere on the way up.

 

Don’t know who the lady in the picture was.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

JR at the top

JR was saying something here, can’t remember what it was, probably something like “take the damn picture and let’s get going!”

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Sani Pass sign

Here we are at the top again. The top was covered in snow again and it was a good, if tricky, ride.

 

There was a sense of accomplishment here as it wasn’t an easy trip up. We would corner a local and get him to take a picture. The local people were friendly and helpful.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Bridge 1

We decided to press inland here and head for Black Mountain, here we stopped on a bridge.

 

The river water wasn’t frozen at that point but in getting on the bridge we had to ride through so heavy snow, the remnants of which can be seen in my rear wheel.

 

In 1999 we rode past this point then cut back and ended up riding across the river bed. The river bed is made up of large slabs of rock that are covered in a green slime. This slime has a negative friction co-efficient!, it makes ice feel like loam. It was so slippery it took us about 15 minutes to cross it.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Bridge 2

Myself getting a bit of sunshine.

 

When we were riding back in the afternoon we managed to pick up the pace a bit. We were splashing through a lot of puddles and, as we were on the road, we were sitting down.

Unbeknown to us the water that was coming of the front wheel was hitting our boots and knees. As we had so much protection on we didn’t feel this, but the water was actually freezing on impact due to the cold ambient air temperature.

By the time we got to the Sani Pass chalet we had about an inch of ice on the front of our knees and boots. When we got off the bikes this cracked and fell onto the ground – it looked like a thick Perspex knee protector!

 

Riding on ice covered dirt roads is a bit of a lottery, you never know when you’ll go down.

I was riding about a mile from this point at about 40 kph, I thought all was going well; elbows up, standing on the pegs, looking ahead.

Then I hit a big bit of ice; the road itself was cambered at that point and I had been unconsciously putting some pressure on the bars to counteract this. When I hit the ice the front lost traction, the bars went from straight ahead to onto the lock-stop instantly. The yokes hit the lock-stop so hard it actually rebounded back a bit. Then I was off the ice, the bars were pointing as far right as they could and then front found traction again.

 

Still not sure how I saved that one.

Location on Google Earth

 

Snow Angel

JR doing his ‘snow-angel’ thing. Silly boy…

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Black Mountain break 1

Here we are stopped halfway up Black Mountain again – pretty much the same place as 1996. At this point the snow had drifted over the road and filled it. The road was like a channel so it collected a lot of snow; in fact it was probably the deepest on the road.

 

In riding up here we hit ‘waves’ of snow on the road – basically drifts that had built up across the road. Each wave slowed us down a little bit more and we gradually lost momentum going up this pass.

Not what we wanted – every time we hit a wave we would gas it, but the ground underneath was ice so the bike would just spin up. To get around this we gassed it between the waves but eventually the road was covered in snow. We decided then to stop and have lunch.

 

When I was riding down I could put my boots out in front of me and it looked like I was water-skiing! The snow would flow off the edges of the boot like water.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Black Mountain break 2

Another picture in the same place.

Sani Pass is over to the left on this picture, the road up to this point can be seen snaking away below us to the right.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Digger

There’s a JCB clearing down Black Mountain pass here, it is just of center to the right; only the cab can be seen.

 

At this point the snow on the road was so heavy we couldn’t get any further so we were glad to see it. We hung around for about 30 minutes but realized that the JCB was going very slowly. We took a walk a bit further up (foot prints) and decided to hop the bikes on the road edge (right side) and ride up to the JCB. We got up there and dropped in behind the JCB and continued. The driver of the JCB was quite surprised to see us.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Black Mountain top 1

This is very close to the top of the Black Mountain pass.

 

The JCB had been through here and we were moving along slowly trying to get over the pass. Again the ground here is frozen dirt so it’s just like ice. I’m trying to balance the WR while JR takes this picture. The snow here was powder, pretty soft to touch, it would have made for good skiing.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Black Mountain top 2

I tried to take a picture of JR the same as the one above but as I snapped the KDX started coming around.

The ice would make this happen every few minutes so we really had to focus. I think JR hit the snow here and scrapped along a bit but he didn’t go down.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Road to Mokhotlong

This is on the way down towards Mokhotlong. After we got over the top of Black Mountain we headed down towards Mokhotlong.

 

To my infinite regret I didn’t take more pictures; this side of the pass had a lot less snow so the riding was better. The road was a winding two track that goes on for about 20 kilometres, it was fast and challenging as there were positive and negative cambers and not much room for mistakes. At times I had the WR on the limiter in 5th for quite a while.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Riding down 1

JR coming down Sani Pass where he was paddling up earlier. Note the concentration! Elbows up, looking ahead – he’s just about to hit the ice here. I think he made it down OK.

 

Location on Google Earth

 

Riding down 2

This is me starting the descent down Sani. Sunshine means no snow or ice here!

 

Location on Google Earth

 

ß Back